(These events took place November 14)

After 5 hours of the hellish bus ride from Phnom Penh, we finally arrived in Kampot.  Anxious to be moving on our own terms, Eric and I immediately stashed our bags at a guesthouse, rented motorbikes and headed out to check out the countryside.  We were expecting my friend Steve to arrive within a few hours so we made it a short jaunt to the seaside town of Kep, about 30 minutes away.  On the way, I took photographs with my camera as well as my mind of all the sights I’ve come to recognize as common to the Cambodian countryside … people from five years of age to ninety leading their cows and water buffalo by rope to graze the grass along the roadside, pigs being transported in baskets on the backs of motorbikes presumably for slaughter, barefoot monks walking single file down gravel roads collecting alms, beyond beautiful neon green rice fields.  Motorbikes either packed with families of five to six or piled ten feet high or wide with goods for sale or delivery whiz past us in both directions. Lovely young girls in their long, flowing navy blue skirts and neatly pressed white blouses gracefully pedal tall rickety bikes on their way to school; children wave and call hello to all the passersby.  Chickens with a brood of fuzzy chicks dart in and out of the road daring drivers to literally “play chicken” with them while dogs snooze lazily snooze on the warm asphalt only bothering to raise their heads if a motorbike tire comes closer than a foot to their head.  Motorbikes hitched to big flatbed trailers carry twenty plus locals; sort of a cross between a bus and a tuk tuk that reminds me of the hayrides I used to go on in the fall when I was a little girl … only without the hay.  

little boy leading his water buffalo

When we arrived in Kep, we came upon a beach where women in dainty hats were hauling in crab traps filled with the day’s catch.  Other locals waited on shore, eagerly grabbing up the choicest crabs for their evening meal.  As in most places not frequented by foreigners, Eric and I were regarded with shy curiosity followed almost instantly by friendly inclusion.  The ladies and I exchanged heartfelt compliments. “Your hair is beautiful!” “I love your smile.” “That hat looks terrific on you.” We became a mutual admiration society and they enjoyed posing for me as much as I enjoyed taking their portraits and showing them the photos.  We all giggled together like schoolgirls.  Before heading to the beach area, we watched a group of fishermen haul in what, at first, looked to be a promising catch, but which turned out to be disappointingly small. 

We headed to the beach and discovered a Cambodian novelty:  forty plus hammocks strung up in open-aired pavilions, three per building, that one could rent for an hour or more to nap or just enjoy a view of the beach at sunset. Although hammocks are known and used worldwide, they are not so popular anywhere as with the Khmer.  Hammocks are a way of life with the Cambodians.  They are not only used as swings, beds,  napping spots, they are a sort of playpen/babysitter for babies and they take the place of chairs as well.  

hammocks for rent

Eric and I adopted the “when in Rome” attitude and snagged two of them, eagerly anticipating a late afternoon snooze.  We ended up talking instead, enjoying good conversation and a lovely sunset, swinging all the while in our comfy cocoons.  Our entertainment cost us $0.50 each for an hour.  We happily handed over $1 and headed back to Kampot to await the arrival of my friend, Steve.   

To see more photos of Cambodia’s charming countryside, check out the “Photos of Her Adventure” page of my blog.